DAY 16 FEB 21 G'BUY GANGES AND HELLO KHAJURAHO

BACK TO THE LADY GAGA
and if we didn't have enough of the Ganges last night we schlepped back down there for the sacred morning bathing rituals at 6 a.m.  Lighting up the candles- let's get this party started!

A traveling kiosk in that sack.  Getting ready to set up shop on one of the Ghats- Darbhanga Ghat, Dasahvamedha Ghat, Man Mandir Ghat, Tulsi Ghat, Asi Ghat Rewa Ghat, Prabhu Ghat, Shivala Ghat- here a Ghat there a Ghat everywhere a Ghat Ghat....remember there are over 90 of them along this 4 mile stretch.

Bocahita really enjoyed the Holy Men.  Being a connoisseur of Kabuki make up that morning had her fit right in.  Hindu Holy Men, also known as Sadhus- referring to one who has renounced and chosen to live a life apart and on the edges of society in order to focus on their own spiritual practice.  So how do you become one my man?  "Well,  Bocahita, one needs Vairagya.  Huh? No no no not Viagra.  Vairagya- a desire to achieve something by leaving the "world"- family and friends.  We have left behind all material and sexual attachments and many of us live in caves, the forest and temples all over India.  We are also called Baba."  Baba?  Well I'll be dogged.  And now Bocahita has her very own Sadhu too.

So how do you become a Sadhu?  "First, one must find a Guru who will guide us.  The next step is our "death" meaning in Hindu terms- we attend our own death and then continue to follow our Guru who guides us through our journey."   But what about all that face paint?  Bocahita looked forward to receiving some make-up tips.













There are between 4-5 million Sadhus in India today and I think we've seen half of them so far.  The Sadhus are widely respected for their holiness and sometimes feared for their curses.  No Pleep, not like cussing- cursing as in putting a bad whammy on you so you better behave around here!  As a matter of fact I just may learn a few of them to keep your monkey butt in line.  Buddha Bubba mumbled something like Bocahita could probably teach some of those Holy Men a few curses as well....

Many people arrive with hands folded facing the rising sun to "cleanse" in Mother Ganga.

Our fearless tour leader Seth, has us back on the boats for the early morning bathing ritual viewing.  This better be good my great leader- getting Bocahita up at 5 a.m. was not a pretty sight.

Although there are over 700 temples in Varanasi, none are more sacred than the river itself.  The Ganges is worshipped as a living goddess, with the power to cleanse all earthly sins.   Daily baths in her waters are advised by Hindu scriptures to prepare for the souls final journey to liberation.  Liberation?  How about the hospital?











We see thousands of the pilgrims get down to the "scrubbing".  Offering of flowers and diyas floating down the river are a common and oh so colorful site.

Hey, where are our husbands????

Here we are girls....paying a little obeisance to Lady GaGa I mean Mother Ganga.  The ritual also includes cupping the hands for a big "enlightened" drink of the water.  Must be an acquired taste like scotch.  But hey, what about all of that pollution and waterborne diseases like dysentery, hepatitis and cholera?  We had heard the government and other groups- Swtcha Ganga- are raising money to clean the old gal up.  And that would be happening when??

Scrub it up my friend.  Must be more of that Bhagavad Cita of the Mahabharata epic offering the advise to "cleanse" in this looking rather dirty river.  This must be some of that finding your own path or at least watering hole.  I have read that for the Hindu's to find that right path was through wisdom, the light of knowledge that expels the darkness of ignorance.  There is no concept of sin, good or bad, only degrees of wisdom.  Those who have found peace are wise, those who are unhappy are still ignorant.   In spite of their standard of living, the people appear to be very happy and friendly.  Maybe just delirious?

Ok, more than Bocahita needed to see.

Oh and don't forget to fill your jug to take home and to temple for just one more gulp.  Does this qualify as "driving with an open container"?

"GANGA MATA KI JAI!"

Victory to Mother Ganga.  You've got that right.

Bocahita so enjoyed watching MEN DOING LAUNDRY.  Must be more of that enlightenment stuff.  Yes they soap the laundry and then slap the goods over these stone planks.  You can see the impact of the laundry hitting the stone- all that Indian dirt flying off- a good thing.

We are talking forceful slapping and some serious upper body strength.

They throw the wadded up laundry to the blanket where another fellow grabs and hangs or lays it out to dry.  Hey Bubs, that looks like motel bedding?  Yes it is Bocahita.  Excellent,  I will be wearing that hoodie ensemble to bed tonight.

I recognize that blanket.  Haven't they heard of a laundromat?

Hello Proctor and Gamble.  I must say he gets his whites pretty darn white.  And what were you saying about that pollution problem?  No environmental issues down here Bubs.










Per Bubs...that's enough of all things Ganges.  Let's blow this pop stand.

But wait Bubs you have been looking for a place to get a haircut.... I think I'll pass on it this morning Bocahita.

 Nothing like a Ric Shaw ride in the madness to end a perfect morning on Mother Ganga

Next stop weaving madness..."my family has been in the weaving business for hundreds of years".  Of course they have, we tourists like to hear that before we get...well you know.  Pleep loved the looms as the are dug into the ground and a two person weaver.

Mughal Emperors insisted on the best and the local weavers became really good at weaving gold and silver thread to create those sumptuous brocades for royal costumes and court furnishings.  Lots of embellishments- floral, animal and geometric motifs favored by those Mugs!  And this shop has over 600 weavers working out of their home.  Talk about a cottage industry...

 Hey, is that Deepak Chopra?  Nah, Pappa Bear.  Annie meets the very dramatic salesman!

He so aptly convinced her she needed the Royal Special for her bed back in California...bringing new meaning to a California King.  Of course you will love it when you get it home.  Have you ever had buyers remorse for something you purchased on vacation?  Nah, I didn't think so.







NEXT STOP KHAJURAHO- K WHAT?
And again on the plane....wings a flappin.  LeLait Hotel...quite lovely and next door to the site we are visiting.  Buddha Bubba always enjoys the greeting Hindu style at the door.

And Bocahita is so very happy that she has her very own "artist" outside her room to watch and keep an eye on.  Oh great thought the  Bubs, just what we need one more picture to frame and put into storage.

Bocahita couldn't resist the yellow one.  Can you see the woman's face via the flowers.  And there is a place in the hacienda for a yellow picture?  Hey for $10 it was worth the show and chat with the resident "artist".

While Pleep did some Temple enlightening....

The other view from the hotel- the temple site right next door.  Ok let's mosey over to it.

KHAJURAHO UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE- YES MORE TEMPLES BUBBA!

The 25 temples at Khajuraho represent the brilliant burst of artistic work that took place under the generous patronage of the powerful Chandela rulers built between the 9th and 10th centuries.  The remoteness of the temples location saved them from the ravages of Islamic raiders but also led to their being abandoned after the decline of the Chandelas in the 13th century.





Hidden in a dense forest for 700 years (hello Angkor Wat/Cambodia) they were "rediscovered" in 1838 by Captain Burt of the Bengal Engineers.  According to local legends there where 85 temples and ongoing excavations have unearthed extensive ruins in the area.







Buddha Bubba on the hunt for the Pleepster.

The magnificent group of temples at Khajuraho gave the Pleep quite a place for some monkeying around.

Lots of tedious restoration going on....we are talking using a toothbrush and water to scrub this stone clean.  Yikes!

Annie and the Bubs on the hunt for a leau....

Now I have not seen Bubs get out his camera...what is he taking a picture of???

The most impressive of the temples is the Kandariya Mahadev, which represents the pinnacle of North Indian temple art and architecture.  Talk about sculptural embellishments-wow!  Over 800 sculptures cover the temple, depicting gods and goddesses, beasts and warriors, sexy maidens, dancers, musicians and of course the erotic scenes for which the Khajuraho temples are famous- ok so now we know what the Bubs was so interested in photoing.

And now to run the gauntlet of hawkers...Annie drew quite a crowd.

Sir can I interest you in some Kama Sutra playing cards?


Even Bubs got into the fun....another tourist book to drag around and of course Bocahita needed that bronze Gandhi.










What a day....dirty, dusty and dog tired.  Night Night.