NEPAL
Landlocked between India and Tibet...we arrived in Kathmandu by a short plane ride-no drama thank you very much. Other than unexpectedly had to have a Visa picture taken, buy a visa, find Annie's luggage that some other lady took by mistake, wondering why every one's luggage was wrapped in plastic with a net of rope around it, getting to the car was another flash mob-only to find a Mexican style standoff with our car and every other car in the parking lot. Buddha Bubs tried to point out to the driver we were swimming up stream and perhaps the guide could get out of the car to part the seas.....
Until 1990 Nepal was one of the world's last remaining absolute monarchies run by a regime that combined China's repressiveness and India's bureaucracy. Since 1990, it has passed from a constitutional monarchy to a multi-party democracy and back. Following a wearying Maoist insurgency, which ended in 2006, it seems to have ended up as a federal republic- governed for the time by former Maoist rebels. Say what? or as they say "Ke garne"- what to do? Nepal is about the size of England with a growing population of 28 million.
Prior to 1951 only a few hundred outsiders had visited Nepal as compared to today- 500,000 tourists annually is what some said but it seems illogical. Are they including day labor as a tourist?- most of them are from their neighbors in India. 80% of the population is Hindu. If Orthodox Indian Hindus are very much the pure veg non-violent persuasion their Tantrically inclined Nepali cousins have a more bloodthirsty bent. Kali, the mother goddess demands blood sacrifice in return for her favours. A tender slaughter? Do they whisper in the ear of the animal telling it they will be reborn to a higher life form? Bocahita says she will pass on any blood spurting demos. Thank you very much.Of course the main reason people come to Nepal is for the Trekking.- Hello Mt. Everest. Will Bubba finally use those poles?? Rafting? Kayaking? Mountain biking? Bocahita heard about the VIPs being carried in on palanquins. Yes, now that's more like it. What ever happened to that caste system? Discriminating according to caste is now illegal in Nepal, though most "higher" caste Indus are still careful about ritual pollution, being careful not to accept food or water from lower casts and avoiding physical contact with them. Marriage has been slowest to change- intercaste couplings are still shocking. I am sure this was much like when Bocahita married the Bubba.
I think the Bocahita will pass on all that trekking stuff- on to the "ethical" shopping? huh? Bocahita will be sure to ask for the labor contract to figure out who made the item and how much "profit" the artisan/worker is receiving. Apparently the AFL-CIO hasn't arrived yet..... Bocahita heard that nudity is a sensitive issue and when the ladies bath in public they wear a "lungi"- a schmata as we call it in Boca- and the forehead is regarded as the most sacred part of the body. Hey Buddha Bubba- start looking for a time share...my kind of thinking!
The per capita annual income is $470 US. This might also be a good place for Nick....
KATHMANDU
Nepal's ancient capital is now packed with 3 million people. The short ride from the airport to our "Heritage" class hotel- Hello Hotel Dwarika- is 10 mins away. Bubs and Annie said this is just the warm up for India. People, food stalls, tschoke stalls, selling anything stalls, tons of plastic and garbage along the road. On to the Dwarika. The Hotel is 25 years old pattered after an ancient city and palace- Newari Style.
Oh good my kind of spiritual place. I had heard about Shiva- the Great God and the pre-eminent divinity in Nepal. Many worship Shiva the Yoga often depicted sitting in that meditative pose....wonder if the Buddha Bubba will strike a pose for us.
Greeted by Shiraz (of course I liked him immediately) he welcomes us Nepali style (yellow scarf around the neck) and takes us to our room. Hey Shaz, I have heard that 40% of the national income here comes from foreign aid?
Unlike today's modern Kathmandu, the ancient cities were meticulously planned- with artistic, social and religious significance. Lots of terra cotta and wood. Ask a "Newari" whether he is Hindu or Buddhist as the saying goes and he'll answer yes. After 15 centuries of continuous exposure to both faiths, the Newari of the Kathmandu Valley have concocted a unique synthesis of the two. Wonder how they worked out that animal sacrifice stuff between them?
The Newari style is dominated by motifs and symbols that incorporate the valley animistic, Hindu and Buddhist heritage.
Annie enjoys the fountain "Hey Bocahita, let's get our bikini's and jump in!" Oh yes Annie, I so want to put my string suit on and stand next to you.
Hey, what's going on? The staff is scurrying around and setting up for some kind of event. Shaz, what's happening? A WEDDING!! This is Boca's dream to attend a Indian/Nepal wedding....
NEPALESE WEDDING FUN
Bocahita so wants to be "invited"so it is important that she learn the customs before she weasels her way in. And Buddha Bubba points out that NO WAY WILL YOU BE THE UGLY AMERICAN WEDDING CRASHER LADY. Oh bah humbug Bubs. The customs vary according to the various ethnic groups. Traditionally marriage are arranged where parents "strike a deal". However in today's Nepalese world "love" is becoming part of the finding a spouse equation. Go figure. Shiraz tells us that today's wedding will be a great festivity with feasting and music and typically lasting 3 days. Yes, that's what I am talking about!
per Shaz the old way included:
The day before the wedding a ceremony called duradai takes place. A pathi (milk with molasses and cardamom) is delivered at the girl's house to repay the mother for the years she spent suckling her daughter. The next evening a feast is held at the girl's house where gifts are brought. At the same time a procession takes place at the boy's home. A large crowd joins in the eating and having a good time. The later proceed to the girl's home with a band leading the way, the groom is left behind. They celebrate together and then return home except the groom's father and some relatives. Past midnight they carry the girl in a hammock to a friend of the groom's father. The following morning the beautiful bride arrives at the boy's house. The boy's mother will bathe the girl's feet in holy water, presenting her with a key. Inside the house a priest engages the party in religious ritual. After this the bride must give areca nuts to everyone in the family. At the end of the day the groom and his bride will share a meal from the same plate. A large feast takes place in the evening. The next day the bride is given a formal reception into the kitchen where everyone eats together. On the third day she is taken to the deity the family worships and takes part in various religious rituals with the groom. They then return to the bride's house for observances of respect. The newly married couple return to the groom's home to begin their married life.
But the new way is all Bollywood style...
Bocahita figured since they hadn't heard of spell check-maybe the families weren't too particular and perhaps she could slip in surreptitiously and enjoy the festivities- like a fly on the wall. And boy those sweets sure looked good...
Never good at that fly on the wall stuff, the next thing you know ol'Bocahita is wrapping the groom in her Nepalese scarf and now part of the party. And a good time was had by all...in the meantime ol'Buddah Bubs is at the Bar with the General Manager chewing the fat.
Prior to his post here he worked at the US Embassy for 17 years so he and the Bubs had a lot to laugh about. He spent the part of the 2 hour visit explaining the history and culture of Nepal. Thank you sir for such a warm and fun evening. Meanwhile the 400 person wedding is going strong and Buddha Bubs is praying Bocahita is not getting into any kerfuffle... Keep that Mantra alive Bubs!
